Hard Wax vs Soft Wax vs Sugaring: Methods of Hair Removal

It’s 2022 and we’re feeling extra empowered and full of life. We’re here for all the body hair, and we’re big fans of choosing your own adventure. We know, it’s hard to keep up with the esthetics world, as everything is evolving so quickly with technology. 

That said, the practice of epilation, or hair removal from the root, has not changed much since the time of the ancient Egyptians; it’s even rumored that Cleopatra herself would get sugared. Though the world of waxing has been around for so long, it remains necessary, and it is filled to the brim with all sorts of exciting products, textures, and treatments.

It’s one of the reasons we love what we do, and it’s totally okay to acknowledge that it can get a little confusing. Let’s break down the differences between some of the most sought-after methods of hair removal across the world.

Hard Wax

Hard wax sounds like it’s definitely wearing a black shirt, a gold chain, and looks ready to disappoint your parents. But, like most Kevin Nguyens, it’s actually gentle and cries to Illenium (okay, let’s be real, hard wax probably cries to Porter Robinson). Hard wax is even considered to be the  most gentle of all wax types. People typically envision a rougher wax experience when they hear the nature of the word, but they couldn’t be farther from the truth.

The wonderful benefits of hard wax

Hard wax is the essential type of wax to use on sensitive skin. Its gentle nature makes it a great option for the bikini line, Brazilian waxes, and the face. The wax is applied and takes a few seconds to set. When it sets, the wax shrink wraps around the hair and lifts up from the skin. 

Because the wax is mostly gripping the hair and not the skin, it’s less painful compared to other methods  and you can go over the skin multiple times to get the cleanest results! While it’s not as likely to lift the skin or cause as much pain, it is still possible for your wax specialist to pull the wax strip incorrectly or even apply wax that is too hot. Look for a wax specialist who shows that they’re knowledgeable about maintaining the integrity of your skin!

What hard wax does WAX x VIBE use?

We are big fans of hard wax that’s resin-free, and that’s exactly what we use in our studio. Since pine-rosin can be a serious skin irritant, we chose a wax that was friendly for all skin types but that doesn’t compromise the integrity of the wax itself. Our resin-free wax is stripless and removes dead skin when removed.

Soft Wax

There’s a lot of conversation around the use of soft wax and for good reason. Whenever we hear a client horror story about getting waxed, usually the culprit is an untrained, potentially unlicensed individual using soft wax. 

Many people, especially those who are seeing an esthetician for the first time, don’t even know that there’s an option between waxes. Let alone hard versus soft. Soft wax is applied to the skin, and then removed with an additional pelon or cloth strip. It is usually kept at a warmer temperature than hard wax and sugar. The warmer temperature makes the wax less viscous and more sticky; it has the greatest adhesion of the different ways to wax/sugar and adheres to both the skin and hair. Thus, soft wax usually does pick up most, if not all, hair on the first pass.

The strength of soft wax makes it easier to potentially compromise the skin during the service, so there’s a few things to be mindful of. It’s important for the wax specialist to apply a barrier (usually oil, powder, or both) to help minimize the chance of too much skin lifting up with the wax, AKA “lifting” or “skin lifting”. 

Wax that is too hot, excessive application (more than once, maybe twice) to the same section of skin are likely to cause lifting. If the strip is not pulled parallel to the skin, the client may bruise. Of course, this all applies to hard wax as well, but it is less likely. It’s amazing for larger areas of the body where the skin is less sensitive, but skilled, licensed beauty professionals can use soft wax just about anywhere.

Why doesn’t WAX x VIBE use soft wax?

As a small business, we’re met with a series of choices we can make in the best interest of our customers. We have been trained with only hard wax, therefore the choice to use only hard wax was made with our skill set in mind. There is a learning curve to all waxing, but especially with soft wax. We can’t in good conscience run the risk of causing harm to our practice models; especially not when we are already skilled and proficient with hard wax. 

That said, when used by a skilled esthetician, soft wax will give a result that’s just as great as other methods of epilation, or when hair is removed from the root. It is easier to lift skin with soft wax because there’s less wiggle room for improper technique; small mistakes with soft wax are more likely to cause harm than the same small mistakes with hard wax. It’s important to go to a licensed service provider that will prioritize proper technique over speed no matter which hair removal method you opt for.

Sugaring

No matter the body part, you’ve probably tried everything to remove hair effectively and with as minimal pain as possible. The truth is that some of our bodies are a little more sensitive than others, and even though a specific wax method or non-wax method might work well for your friend, it may not work well for your body type and your skin type.

Sugaring is one of the oldest methods of hair removal and has become incredibly popular.  It is known to be the most gentle, and for some the least painful. Sugar paste is the least adhesive, only adhering to the hair and dead skin cells. When sugar paste is applied, the sugar slightly penetrates the skin and into the hair follicle and grips the hair. It is the opposite of wax and applied against the direction of hair growth and removed with the direction of hair growth; this is what makes sugaring less painful along with being incredibly gentle. 

However, like waxing, the technique of the sugarist is extremely important. Poor technique can lead to broken hairs and bruising of the skin. If you’re wondering if a lot of hair is growing back fast only a week after your sugar wax appointment, usually the culprit is broken hairs. When the sugar paste is applied against the hair growth, those hairs are being bent backwards. The flicking motion done to remove the paste must be quick and as parallel to the skin as possible. If done incorrectly, the sugar can break the hairs where they are bent instead of removing the hair from the root. If the flicking motion is not quick and fluid, the repeated motions can cause bruising.

What is sugaring wax or paste made from?

There’s no doubt you’ve seen sugaring clips on social media. Hair removal via sugaring utilizes a gel-like, sticky paste that is usually composed of lemon, water, and sugar. Using no chemical additives, it’s considered safe and natural; they’re not super different from organic waxes. The sugar paste is also water soluble, making for easy clean up.

Sugaring vs waxing: two hair removal techniques

Whittling down whether sugaring or waxing is best for you truly depends on your preferences. For some individuals, the tugging sensation when sugar paste is being applied against the direction of hair growth is uncomfortable, possibly even painful. The paste is usually removed by flicking and reapplying multiple times for one pass, which can be worse for someone who prefers to get the whole section over with. 

Likewise, some clients will prefer multiple, smaller sections and find the larger sections of hair being removed all at once to be the worst. Though it is said sensitive skin types prefer sugaring, people have differing levels of sensitivity to different sensations. Some people think tattooing is more painful than getting piercings and vice versa. Soft wax can be great for individuals who want to be done in the least amount of strips and as quickly as possible. Hard wax is both gentle and can be done in bigger sections for a less painful experience. 

How do you know which method is best for you?

The truth about determining which method is best for you comes with trial, error, and experience. It’s totally possible that hard wax is your new go-to hair removal method. The only thing we discourage is trying out DIY sugar wax at home; so many things can go horribly wrong!. Whatever you’re going for, we’re happy to help you determine the best route.

Book your waxing appointment with WAX x VIBE in Arcadia!

When you come into the studio for a waxing service, you’re trusting the staff to make your experience comfortable and effective. And we’re so excited at the thought of being able to start you on your wax journey!